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The Las Palmas chef rises to the top of the kitchen but keeps his pride in his past in-tact.

Monday Apr 30, 2007.     By Michael Nagrant

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Taming the hellfire swelter of kitchen stoves and manning the scalding steam bath of power dishwashers, Latinos provide the backbone for many Chicago kitchens. And yet, despite their integral part in building the world-class food reputation our city enjoys, few Latinos have crossed the border that divides the help from the helm of the kitchen.

Chef Jorge Miranda of Las Palmas, a Mexican immigrant who once served two years in the Mexican army, crossed that line. Securing his first restaurant job working for acclaimed Latino chef Dudley Nieto, Miranda quickly escalated from dishwasher to head line cook in less than five months. Though he wasn't able to afford a formal culinary education, he audited classes for free at Kendall College.

His passion and talent for cooking led him to become a head chef at Adobo Grill and Rosa Mexicano in New York City. He then teamed up with the Rivera family to transform Las Palmas into a palace of refined versions of the rustic Pre-Columbian Mexican cuisine practiced by his ancestors.

What do you wish you could pickle/change about the Chicago restaurant scene?
I would maintain the diversity of the industry and a passion for excellent service in the dining room; We have an adventurous passion for the food that we prepare in our kitchens, so I wouldn't change anything there. Except maybe I'd figure out how to add an extra day in the week so I can get all the prep work done.

What would your last meal be?
A rack of lamb marinated in a pesto of chilies and spices served over a red mole sauce with a side of ayocotes (black turtle beans) and habas (fava beans) with a side of mashed yucca/plantain mix.

Where do you eat before/after a shift?
Normally I have breakfast at home with my daughters. If I don't eat at the restaurant before I leave, when I get home, my wife and I prepare a meljurge, a light and healthy stir-fry of leftovers in the fridge.

What's the can't-miss dish at your restaurant?
One of my favorites is el salmon al a naranja, pan-seared salmon with guajillo chili orange salsa.

What should we know about your restaurant that we probably don't?
We support the artists and the young people of our community through fundraisers and special events. But above all, we try to improve peoples' lives by opening their eyes to fabulous and intriguing art and also by introducing them to a taste of authentic Mexican cuisine. We also run weekly ads, which have caused controversy, and have at times reflected negatively on us. Our ads are meant to create dialogue and promote thought, not incite hate or ill feelings. We highlight "change-makers" of all races, gender and walks of life who try to better their fellow humans.