Getting your goat has quite a new meaning at this South Side taqueria specializing in all things chivo, aka goat.

There are many ways to make birria or goat consommé, but Tatemada style, the way they make it at Zaragoza (which comes from the word "tatemar," meaning "to toast") is one of the best. The meat is slow roasted, slathered with an earthy roasted chili mole sauce, and browned in an oven. The tender and juicy chili-perfumed bits are then placed in a bowl and ladled with a spicy soul-soothing consomme.

At Zaragoza, which uses whole goats, it pays to know the specific cut you want. Discerning patrons love the pistola, or gun-shaped leg joint, dripping with tender flesh. For an assortment that includes all manner of cuts, including a bit of liver, try the plato bien surtido. Anthony Bourdain wanna-bes should go for the cabeza, or tender head parts. Of course, if organs and scary parts aren't your thing, you can always just specify normal cuts from the leg or body.

While the fare is slightly exotic, the restaurant, which features tulip-style stools and diamond-patterned stainless steel, is straight up taqueria meets diner.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant