Chicago is hundreds of miles away from the kitchens that regularly serve up fried chicken, okra and grits, but that doesn't mean the Windy City is deplete of good, old Southern cookin'. Pleasing both displaced Southerners with a mean craving for soul food and Yankees who aren't scared of crawfish (or even those who are), Wishbone offers sophisticated, fresh food without the stuffiness or lofty prices that often accompany first-rate fare.

Rare restaurant finds such as blackened catfish ($10.95), a fresh farm-raised fillet seared with Wishbone Cajun spices, and North Carolina blue claw crab cakes ($12.95) are exceptionally tasty. Cole slaw and two sides (you pick from 12 options, including macaroni and cheese, collard greens and blackeyed peas and rice) are included with most dinner entrees.

Without discrediting its other meals, Wishbone's brunch is a must-try. For a true taste of the South, dig in to the shrimp and grits, shrimp sauteed with bacon, mushrooms, scallions, wine and cream and served over cheese grits ($8.95). Less adventurous folk can indulge in crunchy French toast, a creative twist on the average French toast that's dipped in corn flakes. Some of the items carry over to the weekday breakfast menu, but the full brunch is only served on the weekends.

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown