Wing fans and buffalo-sauce enthusiasts of Chicago take note: A shot has been fired across the venerable bow of Evanston's Buffalo Joe's, the longtime go-to destination for chicken wings galore. Wings Around The World, located straight east of U.S. Cellular Field in Bronzeville, has upped the wing ante. The restaurant's tagline reads "flavors to infinity," and it comes damn close.

WATW does wings right—no breading, no batter-dipping—it serves meaty, deep-fried chicken wings. Customers expecting run-of-the-mill buffalo and BBQ sauces will be pleasantly surprised that "around the world" is no exaggeration. The 32 wing flavors include chipotle from Mexico, parmesan garlic from Italy, fire jerk from Jamaica and curry-masala from India. It even honors Canada with the Maple Twist flavor, which evokes a much-needed addition to Chicago's culinary landscape: chicken ‘n' waffles. Wings are served in batches of five per flavor, so don't think you can order a dozen to sample everything flavor from Greece to Japan. Twenty wings cost $13, and depending on your order, you can pay $2 more to add fries and a drink. The menu also offers catfish, tilapia and shrimp, but why play against WATW's strengths?

With no tables or booths, you have to take all items to go in true South Side storefront-service style. If you’re really hungry, you can get a thousand wings for the low, low price of $450. If I owned Buffalo Wild Wings, I'd cross my fingers and hope WATW doesn't get wise and franchise.

Centerstage Reviewer: Karl Klockars