Always a step ahead of the latest foodie fetish, the marketing braintrust behind Lettuce Entertain You's Vong's Thai Kitchen noticed the sprouting of noodle establishments on every corner and reopened Vong's (named after its creator, New York chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten) as VTK in 2001.

The restaurant undercut its prices and altered its menu to appeal to a clientele affluent enough to indulge in some Thai-jitos (shaken with vodka and lemongrass), but sharp enough to appreciate "Let's Share" family-style options where groups sample curry dishes, pad Thai, crispy wide rice noodes, Thai salad and dessert creations ($12.95 lunch; $24.95 dinner).

Given the crowd, liveliness just reverberates at VTK, from the red paint brightening an entire wall to the floor-to-ceiling windows an equally vibrant sidewalk scene. Bamboo-style folding walls close off a private lounge that seats up to 16.

Chef de cuisine Arnie Tellez certainly knows his way around a crusted shrimp satay. Diners know their meal didn't originate in a telltale little white box when the shrimp and scallops in a citrus curry hit the palate. Pad Thai takes a twist with not-your-ordinary chicken additions like salmon or shrimp and crab (a VKT Signature Dish). Grilled beef tenderloin with gingered mushrooms, soy caramel sauce and mustard mashed potatoes justify any amount of time spent hunting for a parking spot (but thank goodness for valet).

Desserts delight, especially at $1 for the minis. Bubble tea, mixed with kiwi and bursts of tapioca rushing through the straw makes for a great reason to take a noontime break from the cubicle.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robin Wright