While Ashland Avenue is one of the more major thoroughfares in Chicago, one might start to actually feel a little cozy on the stretch just south of Division – trees line the boulevard on sides and center, and branches brush up against the bright blue exterior of Mariscos El Veneno.

The entrance is simple, and the tables are plain – some nautical props adorn the ceiling, and one might not be impressed – until the waiter brings out a big plate of tuna ceviche and tostadas for you. There's also no less than four different hot sauces at each table – and not a one was made in Louisiana. The appetizers run from 3-dollar tacos to 17-dollar oyster plates, with varying sizes to accommodate those who are saving room for dinner – a very real concern here for even the most accomplished member of the clean plate club.

Plates run anywhere from $11-$18, but also vary wildly in size. Diving into the shrimp al ajillo will set you back $11 for a plate of shrimp perfectly coated in butter and garlic, as well as fries, garlic bread and salad on the side. The pina relleno, a slight departure from the usual chile, gives you a half pineapple stuffed with shrimp, octopus, crab, cheese, mushrooms and peppers for a piping hot but succulent dish that, with the standard sides plus the pineapple slices, can easily feed two hungry omnivores.

While the restaurant does not serve its own booze, it is BYOB. Bring along your favorites, but in moderation – the sign on the wall asks customers politely to keep it to three drinks a patron. No worries - once you start working into these huge dishes, you probably won't be able to fit much more into your belly anyway.

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge