Refreshingly simple (like the best Italian food), Va Pensiero pairs elegant yet authentic Italian cuisine with an unassuming setting. Nestled beneath Evanston's Margarita Inn, the traditional decor and soft music make a mild backdrop, encouraging an intimate encounter between you, your guests and the exquisite food and wine.

Executive chef Eric Hammond, recruited from NYC's Coco Pazzo, re-fashions his menu each month to showcase the cuisine of a different region of Italy. Make it an occasion and go expecting to spend about $50 per person (before tax and tip) and with enough time to savor your dinner in style. Seasonal appetizers like bobwhite quail stuffed with spicy fennel sausage and served with pomegranate sauce, salads highlighting local produce and flavorful cheeses, and desserts by award-winning pastry chef Tania Singer merit ordering several courses beyond your entree.

The knowledgeable wine director and staff can help guide you through a wine list that has earned Wine Spectator magazine's "Award of Excellence" yearly since 1998. Treats from the exclusively Italian cellar run $30 to $925, with plenty in between.

Outdoor seating on the Garden Terrace is available when weather permits. Reservations are encouraged; valet parking service is available. Va Pensiero offers a variety of spaces for customized special events and hosts featured events of its own including an annual Mothers Day brunch; check the website for an updated listing.

Centerstage Reviewer: Julia Steinberger