Chef William Kim heads up this new upscale Logan Square restaurant which, surprisingly, is housed in a forgettable strip mall between a cleaners and a laundromat on an otherwise barren strip of California Avenue. Here, you're far more likely to find a grocery store, taqueria or dive bar than this Asian joint that serves up $6–$8 dumplings, ranging from chicken and mushroom to Asian squash; rices like short rib and scallion, and phat rice; $12 soba noodles covered in bay scallops, king oyster mushrooms and blue crab broth; and sides like traditional kimchi.

Because this is a new place, the menu as well as the interior decorations are somewhat limited. On the walls of this gray-painted, narrow restaurant, which seems like it could have once been a run-of-the-mill taco joint or even convenience store, two thick chunks of wood are cautiously propped up (don't worry, they won't fall on you.)

Aside from the menu and the random, easy-to-miss location, this BYOB joint appears to be an anomaly in the neighborhood. Patrons roll up in fancy cars and tend to even get a bit dressed up, so it makes sense that this is perhaps just an early development in this slowly gentrifying neighborhood. In fact, I overheard a nearby patron mention that the location was "up-and-coming." But you should decide for yourself – if you have an urban belly, that is.

Centerstage Reviewer: Alicia Eler