What could be better than a hole-in-the-wall Chinese joint located in an Uptown strip mall? On this quickly gentrifying strip of Wilson at Magnolia—right across from a Starbucks and next-door to a swank condo building—sits Three Harmony.

The place gets down to business with a huge menu of Chinese standbys, only a few booths, offerings to Buddha in the corner, and a giant fish tank full of oversized goldfish perched atop the carryout counter. The diverse menu that's posted on the westernmost wall of the restaurant boasts Mandarin, Hunan, Szechuan and Cantonese-style eats filled with everything beef, chicken or shrimp-based that you can think to eat. Appetizers run the gamut from egg rolls (two for $2.40) to barbecue pork ($4.50) and barbecue ribs ($5.25). Standard soups include wonton and egg drop. And, of course, you can get fried rice with nearly any kind of meat or seafood—like chicken, beef, pork, ham and even crab meat—all for less than $7.

Now onto the main courses, which the owners have divided into chicken, beef, seafood, pork, vegetarian, egg foo young and sweet & sour, which all come with plain rice. Portions come generously sized and, depending on the dish, rather hot; take number 59, the Szechwan chicken, curry shrimp (number 80) or Szechwan string beans (number 106).

If you happen to come by around lunch time, don't miss the super-cheap lunch special: $4.50 for an entrée served with shrimp friend rice or steamed rice and a greasy egg roll. Now that's a price with a harmonious ring.

Centerstage Reviewer: Alicia Eler