For those who grew up downing cans of ginger-kissed Vernors ginger ale, chomping on Better-Made potato chips and slurping down Sanders hot fudge sundaes and yearn for another taste of their Detroit youth, mecca has come to you.

This second location of Steve's (the original is the Detroit suburb of Bloomfield Hills) is pretty much a home away from home for those folks. Though you won't find the Better-Made, pretty much everything else is here on the menu and also available for your home from the take-away market on the other side of the restaurant.

If you choose to stay and belly up to the gleaming stainless and formica of this modern deli/diner, you'll be rewarded with heaping piles of corned beef on thick slices of toasted seeded rye, steamy bowls of soup filled with fist-sized matzoh balls and creamy chopped liver. The service, while a bit slow at times, is otherwise friendly and pretty efficient. While Steve's won't ever replace stalwart old classics like Manny's, it has all the tools to become a new one.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant