When I smell barbecue, my man-tail wags. The sweet tang of barbecue simmering into wood-smoked meat at Smoque BBQ had me drooling before I approached the counter.

Smoque's clean, open dining room distinguishes this counter-order joint from the typical clutter of Chicago's other barbecue spots. There are no barbecue sauce bottles on the tables here; Barry Sorkin, one of Smoque's five owners, feels that sauce should be served warm and that leaving it on the table reduces it to a mere condiment.

Any barbecue-lover knows that the difference is in the sauce. My mouth waters as I try to describe the sauce on my chopped brisket sandwich. The thin, sweet sauce mingled with the meat, which is smoked for 15 hours, infinitely improves the individual sandwich ingredients. Smoque's other sauce, a semi-sweet version, is used like a glaze on the dry-rubbed ribs.

A full slab of either the baby back or the meatier St. Louis, coupled with a vinegary cole slaw and two made-from-scratch side dishes, peaks the menu at $19.45. My sandwich ($6.45 a la carte) came to $7.95 when I added the zesty slaw and barbecued baked beans. The smallish menu also includes chicken and pulled pork, a mini-menu for kids, a salad, and sides like cornbread and peach cobbler.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robert Duffer