In the window where other Chinese restaurants might display a spiritual icon, perhaps a picture of Buddha, sits an 8x10 glossy depicting the Colgate commercial smile of the Hungry Hound, ABC-7's own Steve Dolinsky, the ultimate foodie endorsement.

The Shui Wah aisles are too small for cart service, so you order directly from a menu, ensuring fresh hot fare. Squid, pork skin and "chopped meat" congee is a bowl of soul-satisfying porridge studded with fragrant ginger, toasted peanuts and porky goodness. Batter-kissed fried squid in pepper salt taste like from-the-sea French fries. Beef short ribs, billed as "baby bone in satay sauce" on the menu are melt-in-your-mouth wafer-thin marinated gems, while steamed golf ball-like domes of airy buns envelop a duck egg floating in satay sauce, the perfect sweet/savory dessert.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant