If you're looking to re-create the moment from "A Christmas Story" where Ralphie and his family go out for Peking Duck because their Christmas turkey was ravaged by rabid dogs, this 40-year-old Chinese restaurant is the perfect place.

Featuring a smattering of paper lanterns, Chineze zodiac placemats, jasmine tea poured in to ceramic cups from metal pots, and a meal-ending fortune cookie, Shanghai Inn is the epitome of the egg foo young and almond boneless chicken serving palaces founded in the 1950s and ‘60s. Featuring vinyl booths and plenty of chrome accents, Shanghai Inn also has a bit of an old school diner style edge.

What's not stereotypical here is the food. Sauces aren't gloppy and sickeningly sweet, and you won't fall asleep from mounds of MSG. Pineapple chicken is balanced between sour and sweet, while crispy wrapped egg rolls filled with shredded Chinese five-spiced pork are some of the best around. Crab Rangoon is tempura batter light, while moo shu pork features rich beefy planks mixed with crisp shredded wok stirred fennel and cabbage, and a smoky plum/hoisin sauce.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant