So you live in Chicago but don't like deep dish, and you're wondering what's wrong with yourself. While you may feel left out, a closer look reveals plenty of places that cater to customers who don't mind being able to stand up after consuming a slice of pizza. Sapore di Napoli, a traditional Italian-style pizzeria and gelateria, is one of them, serving pies so authentic they spell it "pizze."

Inside Sapore's tiny storefront, pictures of Italy hang from the yellow walls, and Italian opera music blares from a stereo near the ceiling. Arrive with a large group and the staff is happy to shift around the neatly arranged tables. About half the space is dedicated to the open kitchen, which stretches back behind the pick-up counter, where you can also ogle the gelato.

And do ogle, because while the pizzes are very good (with traditional options including potato and rosemary, prosciutto and artichoke and good old sausage and onion), the gelato hogs the spotlight. A double-scoop of pistachio or zabaglione (think egg nog, but sweeter) will have you wondering "Gino who?" and tallying up just how much it would cost you to move to Naples. Between the pizze and the gelato, it's easy to miss the other page of the menu, which features appetizers, salads and pastas—perfect for family-style dining. Of course, Sapore di Napoli will never overthrow the deep-dish machine (come on, this is Chicago), but it will at least teach us that Neopolitan-style means more than three different flavors of ice cream.

Centerstage Reviewer: Mac McCormick