Milwaukee, Armitage and Western is an intersection known for its two dueling 24-hour Mexican restaurants, Arturo’s and Lazlo's. Yet just one door north of them, the menu heads south – all the way to Peru.

Rosa De Lima is not a 24-hour restaurant, and they have never replaced the sign of their previous patrons. But one step inside the spacious dining room, and any diner would agree they haven’t wasted any effort on appearances inside. Full-wall murals depict tropical waterfalls and exotic birds, while each table is adorned with artistically folded napkins and carnations in the center. With a beef stew and tray of garlic bread brought out with a carafe of water, there's good eating to be had even before you crack open the menu.

Appetizers include avocados stuffed with shrimp salad for $8.50, or mashed potatoes with yellow pepper cream stuffed with chicken for $9. The beer list offers several Peruvian imports, as well as a cocktail menu that will challenge your taste buds – the algarrobina has cream, egg and cinnamon mixed with algorrobina syrup for a twist on one's typical Brandy Alexander. The non-alcoholic chica morada is a must – aside from being delicious, this brew of purple corn boiled with pineapple rind, cinnamon, and clove is apparently full of health benefits.

The main dish of the main dishes is the chicken – a whole chicken will run you $13, a half $8, and a quarter for $6 each coming with two sides. Their version of mashed potatoes employs milk, butter and nutmeg for a creamy balance to the pepper-spiced savory chicken. A side of sweet fried plantains may as well be dessert on your plate, but save room for the real ones – for only $4 you can get a slice of flan that would do grandma's pies proud, or a slice of chocolate cake stuffed with strawberries and cream.

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge