Ranalli's first opened in the early 1900s when an Abruzzian family immigrated to the States and was persuaded to put its lip-smacking pizza on a menu. Today, the Ranalli's in Andersonville continues the family affair, albeit with a different family. The sibling owners of this latest outpost grew up just a few blocks away and bring more than two decades of Ranalli's experience to the table.

Butternut squash-colored walls and large horizontal mirrors decorate the single-level dining room. A curved granite counter off to one side provides the perfect spot to hop on a stool and munch on a slice of pizza. Although the restaurant is located just off the busy Andersonville strip, its outdoor stays free from foot-traffic, tucked into a quiet, sunny spot on Clark Street.

The menu is packed with classics like spaghetti Bolognese and made-to-order pizza, as well as a few inventive twists such as the Ragazzo Povero, an Italian-style po'boy with genoa salami, mozzarella, capicola, pepperoncini and Italian cheeses, and mini-ravioli filled with asiago cheese and sauteed with aglio olio. The owners are partial to the panzerotti, calzone-like pockets of cheese, veggies and sauce that are fried rather than baked. Pasta dishes and sandwiches are $7.50-$10; entrees are $12.50-$15.50. And a BYOB policy keeps the costs low.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Rockwood