Watch out, Devon. With at least five Indian restaurants within a one-mile radius of the Clark and Belmont intersection, Lakeview needs another Indian place about as much as it needs another condo development. But Pakistani and Bangladeshi cuisine is another story, and the folks at Radhuni Indian Kitchen hope that offering all three cuisines will give them an edge over the competition.

The name literally means "home cook" in Bangladeshi, which fits perfectly for this modest-size, family-operated spot. The decor follows that of most Indian restaurants: Warm gold, yellow and red undertones abound with colorful tapestries adorning one wall and gold-plated elephants on another.

The service here can be a little slow, but anxious diners will find calm with the samosas appetizer, whose perfectly cooked peas and potatoes and chewy puff pastry shell will help take the edge off. Though menu items lean a bit toward Bangladeshi cuisine, the patron favorite remains the tandoori chicken ($12.95 for a full order); on the night we visited nearly every other order coming out of the kitchen was the sizzling, marinated and succulent bird. The spicy daal bharta, sauteed and mashed lentils with onions, green chilies and cilantro, is another winner, though the naan that you side it with may be the true champion. Radhuni offers more than a dozen varieties, from cheese to pistachio to almond, and all are surprisingly chewy and delicious. The daily lunch buffet, offered from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., is a steal at $8.95. BYOB.

Centerstage Reviewer: Maya Henderson