Come for the wine and stay for the small plates at this River North restaurant brought to you by the folks of Gibsons and Hugo's. Quartino channels rustic Italy right down to its pinewood-and tile-finished floors. In the dining room, charmingly mismatched antique chairs and old-fashioned flatware imbue the place with European-style hominess.

Unsurprisingly (the place is named after a carafe) Quartino's wine list is as comprehensive as the pasta selection at Italian Village. If you're not down for a whole bottle of wine (generally $22-$75) or want one glass more, you can pour it from a carafe: Select from the 1/4-L quartino, the 1/2-L mezzo or the one-L litro. For something extra peachy, order a bellini in any of the three aforementioned sizes ($8-$32).

On the food tip, look for ciccetti (wine bar snacks) like $2 spreads of white bean and garlic, sun-dried tomato or roasted eggplant. Fondue melts things the gourmet way with an Italian artisan blend served with calabrese bread. Chef John Coletta's cold and hot small plates range from eggplant salad with capers and tomatoes to seared chicken with cranberry bean stew. For a heartier selection, look toward the grappa-cured salmon or the prime Angus beef tagliata. A deli counter offers meats, olives and breads for those on the go.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg