The space within Opera exudes the energy of a busy market in Chinatown; gorgeous murals surround you, and colors explode off the walls like fireworks. It's literally a riot; a wall of neon glass tucked into one corner, black fish stenciled above the kitchen and toward the back wall, and Kleiner's own red light district. The series of private dining booths for two were fashioned from fireproof film vaults leftover from the building's days as a movie warehouse.

The executive chef, Paul Wildermuth, serves a menu of contemporary Chinese he created with Arun Sampanthavivat of Arun's restaurant, but "turns it on its head a bit."

Utilizing the best in local produce and regional recipes, Wildermuth delivers upscale takes on classic dishes. Take Opera's Beef Broccoli, for example: black pepper grilled filet mignon is served over baby Chinese broccoli in a cognac sauce.

Centerstage Reviewer: Patrick Sisson