From the outside, Mixteco can be easy to miss. The dark-tinted windows don't draw attention, and you may find yourself wondering just what exactly is going on inside. Once in, however, everything is out in the open: Patron and kitchen are separated by a low counter, and as the small space fills with the smells of food being prepared, you'll kick yourself for not braving the dark windows (and the line to get in) a little sooner.

Those smells are thanks to Raul Arreola, a veteran of Topolobampo and Fonda del Mar, two Rick Bayless restaurants. Not surprisingly, Mixteco Grill is going for the upscale Mexican food market as well. This is not a taqueria, unless your local taqueria features dishes like gazpacho or chuleto en mole negro, a grilled pork chop smothered in black mole and served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

Mixteco excels at these high-end dinners, with prices typically ranging from $13 for a vegetarian enchilada plate to $20 for a fantastic wood-grilled ribeye. Smaller, affordable dishes find a home on the menu, too, and can be enjoyed either as appetizers or light meals. Try the sopes, three small corn masa boats, one filled with chicken, another pork and the third with especially tasty portabella ($7). The poblano sauce on the Uchepos Gratinados, two corn tamales dusted with Monterey cheese ($6), is amazing. The small plates won't fill you up, but if your aim is to try a few small dishes before committing to a bigger meal next time, these are great representative samples.

For now, Mixteco Grill is BYOB.

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman