Most delis specialize in the grab 'n go, but Miceli's wisely lets you sit awhile. Its $5.95 linguini and clam sauce begs for a sturdy table and your full attention, and since this Italian gem goes the distance with its stellar daily specials and jam-packed meatball subs, it shouldn't come as much of a surprise that you'll have 120 chairs to choose from.

Signs out front proclaim the "best Italian subs" await beyond Miceli's doors, but you'll have to plan your visit wisely, as a trip here is constrained to weekday breakfast or lunch. Sandwiches aren't the same old baloney; try pepper and egg, breaded eggplant, crab meat salad or double sausage versions. Stuffed gnocchi and spaghetti and meatballs up the ante, with bread and butter on the side, and soups include Italian wedding and cream of broccoli. The floors are black and white check, the biscotti costs a buck each and the cheap and classic Italian fare helps put the heart in Miceli's Heart of Italy hood.

Take a load off, dip Italian bread into your cup of pasta fagioli and dream about imitating the soup at home; a small grocery area on the left sells Italian products to get you started.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz