In a world where tofu toast and imitation egg yolks have become standard breakfast staples, it's comforting to know that there are still places serving traditional morning chow sans trendy fluff. Enter Le Peep, a traditional breakfast safe house, unshackled from the burden of all things chic. This place is one-stop shopping for anyone in search of the perfect omelet, but don't confuse tradition with simplicity: Le Peep adds its own spin to many of the dishes on its sprawling six-page menu. Biscuits and gravy anyone? How 'bout with "Hawg-wild" sausage?

Located (ironically enough) across the street from a hip, West Loop gym, Le Peep is simple to find but not easy to get to. Parking can be tricky, but spaces are often found on one of the many local side streets. Once inside, however, prepare to be whisked back to an era when old men with newspapers littered cramped waiting quarters and no table was complete without a decanter full of ice water. Ambience is equally time-honored: beige and cranberry walls adorned with pictures from local artists tower over a scuffed, hardwood floor that has certainly seen better days. A mostly local crew of hungry gym-goers dominates early weekend hours, but Le Peep draws more than just the pilates crowd; expect to see an array of tourists and business professionals during the week and at lunch time.

Breakfast entrees run the early-morning gamut from juicy steak to eggs Benedict to the colossal "Eighteen Wheeler," a mammoth consortium of bacon, potatoes and pancakes held together by gooey egg yolk. A collection of aptly named potato skillets (hobo, drifter, gypsy) are available for $7.49 each, but for a real treat try the velvety blueberry pancakes; they're huge but fluffy enough not to spoil lunch.

And speaking of lunch, Le Peep offers a variety of sandwich classics like Cajun chicken and Turkey on pita to soothe those midday munchies. The chicken Florentine on grilled sourdough benefits from a shot of Dijon mustard and Italian spices. Get it for $7.59 Chicken crepes are paper-thin and completely satisfying. And in the spirit of entrepreneurship, Le Peep entices members of the nearby gym, with several gourmet salads. A spicy blackened salmon salad for $8.95 should satisfy both the heart-healthy and the budget conscious.

And don't worry suburbanites; Le Peep has not forsaken you! Check out locations in Mt. Prospect at 10 E. Northwest Hwy. and Evanston at 827 Church St.

Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White