If you like your bakery sweets without the cloying customer service, head to La Fama, grab a tray and help yourself. This no-frills Ukrainian Village spot offers patrons traditional Mexican goods in a simple take-out setting: select one of their specialty sweet potato turnovers, pour a cup of coffee or just take a look. No one will break your stride.

Aside from its peppy yellow storefront, La Fama's decor extends no further than the pastry embellishments (and even then, we're talking a few sprinkles). However, DIYers will like its cafeteria-style set up and reliably small crowd; all will appreciate the nominal prices, at around 40 cents for most items. Bread-heads take your pick: encased along the perimeter of the bakery's intimate, if slightly drab, interior are popular staples such as conchas (Mexican sweet bread).

Owner Rafael Flores, who earned his stripes at Wonder Bread in the late '80s, chose the slogan, "we are not the biggest, just the best," for this flagship location and two other (now defunct) outlets, and with a staff that begins baking from scratch at 3:45 a.m., it's clear that Flores ensures this pride translates to employees. Special orders are always accommodated, though turn-around varies as business picks up from fall to spring.

Located in the center of many a morning CTA station hike, La Fama's transient-friendly milieu offers morning commuters a chance to change a bill while foregoing coffee shop small-talk and grabbing some authentic Mexican pastries in the process.

Centerstage Reviewer: Libby Ramer