Taking its cue from Chicago's designation as a "Windy City," Kaze (Japanese for wind) offers a continually changing dining experience for sushi lovers. The experience itself is a change, however: Though the sushi is served with the customary side of soy sauce, "toppings" complement many of the nigiri, dissuading diners from dunking (ahem, drowning) them in soy sauce, thereby diminishing the flavor.

Chef Macku Chan, the noted sushi restaurateur who helped make Heat and Mirai pined-after hot spots, is behind the innovation. The Roscoe Village sushi spot's menu focuses on seasonal entrees, offering fresh fish crowned with a little somethin-somethin. Expect baby squid topped with mint, spicy sauce and Japanese black pepper; and hamachi nigiri garnished with banana peppers and Japanese black pepper.

The restaurant's decor, with its white walls, cushioned gold chairs and classy table settings, is elegant without being uncomfortable, creating a casual atmosphere for sushi lovers old and new to enjoy the delicacies. The waiters are fully prepared to assist guests in selecting menu options and tailoring orders to suit specific tastes, from the ever palatable standard—California maki—to the more adventurous freshwater eel garnished with soft cow cheese, chives, grated sesame seeds and black pepper. The restaurant encourages diners to be adventurous, offering all of the entrees at modest prices so they can try several at once. Reservations are recommended, since the restaurant only has a dozen or so tables and a small sushi bar. Catering and carryout are also available.

Centerstage Reviewer: Ann McDonald