You'll never feel like a stranger, as Jim Morrison would say, at Gene & Georgetti, where the staff aims at getting to know each and every customer who walks through the door. After a single visit, you'll be famously chummy with the handful of waiters and bartenders, many of whom have worked at the steakhouse for decades and more. Designed to resemble a 1940s supper club, Gene & Georgetti evokes the feel of the Eisenhower era with its wood paneling and mural depicting the intersection of Franklin and Illinois in the years just before World War II.

If the atmosphere is pre-Baby Boomer, the prices are straight out of 2007. Bartenders customize to any drink whim and have elephant-like memories for your poison, but it'll cost you, as will a pour from the very comprehensive and extensive wine list. The same rule applies to the "Supersize Me"-portioned food. The famous Garbage Salad, with salami and mozzarella bits among dozens of other ingredients, provides a month's worth of calories, but a whole lot of fun in the process. It doesn't take long to realize that it's the selection of filet mignon, rib-eye and T-bone steaks that have drawn in the likes of old blue eyes Frank Sinatra, Lucille Ball and Lee Iaccoca over the years.

Either that or the company.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robin Wright