The folks behind Franconello in Beverly, Franco's Ristorante in Bridgeport, and Hashbrowns in the University Village Marketplace have opened another Franconello location just a half-block away from Hashbrowns. With the tony location comes other features you won't find in the other three restaurants, like room between tables and in the decadent deep red booths (enough to swing your elbows and lean back after a hearty meal), ample alfresco dining with a bird's-eye view of the ongoing development around historic Maxwell Street, and clean sightlines to the kitchen from any spot in the restaurant. The bar is polished, the back bar a marvel of glass, and the cocktails stiff.

What Franconello University Village shares with its sister Beverly location—and Franco's Ristorante—is classic, no-nonsense Italian comfort food. The signature pork chop is available either vesuvio, broiled, or served crusted in Italian oregano and peppers. Whet your appetite here with the baked clams teeming in white wine broth or banana peppers stuffed with crumbled Italian sausage. Pizzas abound here, made to order with a list of ingredients as long as your arm. If none of that fills you, finish off the meal with a cappuccino and some amazing tiramisu.

Centerstage Reviewer: Chuck Sudo