It might sound simplistic, but the sine qua non of Edo Sushi's straightforward menu can be summed up in one easy word: sushi. That's not to say that the eatery doesn't have anything else. Edo's bi-bim-bop is some of the best in the city, but the restaurant's obvious raison d'etre is its expansive list of high-quality sushi and sashimi at rock bottom prices. And, unlike many newer sushi places, it doesn't assume that all customers understand fish by now. Edo takes the guesswork out of ordering and arranges sushi in sets designed to please specific tastes.

While sushi can still be ordered by the piece, most opt for deals like the mixed maki combo: one tuna, one California and one cucumber roll. The vegetarian maki combo (spinach roll, radish roll) meets the needs of the non-fishers, and, like all good American sushi places, Edo offers a "beginners" sushi platter with cooked fish and egg. Most combos are $9.50 but some of the larger, more extensive combinations are slightly more.

Specialty rolls like the dragon (broiled eel, shrimp tempura, crab, cucumber, avocado and tobiko) and rainbow (tuna, red snapper, crab, shrimp, tempura, avocado and tobiko) are good but rather small and almost as expensive as the much larger sushi combos, at $9 and $12, respectively. The Rock & Roll maki, with broiled eel, salmon skin, spinach, cream cheese, cucumber and tobiko, provides a crunchy and robust treat.

Edo's ambiance is all but nonexistent: a geisha poster there, a few Japanese letters there and that's about all. The blandness is compounded by Kenny G-heavy soundtrack that makes it feel like intermission time at the The Mikado. Clearly, it's the top-notch sushi that Edo rolls with aplomb day after day that's the real draw. Pair with a better soundtrack in the comforts of your own home with a party tray that serves up to eight, which range from $75 to $130 and offer a variety of different sushi combinations.

Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White