Edgewater's Huaraches Dona Chio sits at the western end of the very long residential Elmdale Street. After passing the kids playing in the park, the unassuming storefront with the unattractive black awning appears a neighborhood eyesore. Yet don't judge a mysterious, basement-level Mexican eatery by its uncomely appearance. Inside lies some mighty authentic, straight-from-Mexico City fare.

Despite its odd location, the minuscule restaurant is packed. Young Mexican families, elders, and hombres just chilin' constitute the patrons. The interior is not so cheery, with a few cheap tables and a long counter, behind which a woman in a hairnet runs a one-woman show of cooking and preparing.

Don't expect anyone to speak English very well or make airs of friendliness. As long as you understand its part of the non-American dining experience you can concentrate on what really matters: the food. The main squeeze is the huarache, a handmade (yes, right in front of you) sandal-shaped tortilla from masa (corn) flour. It comes in small to large sizes ($4-$6) and is stuffed with your choice of meat or beans, cheese, lettuce and tomato, and sour cream. Fresh and flaky, the huarache's texture is soft and melt-in-your mouth, like a pancake made from corn.

There are other options: chilaquiles with eggs for breakfast ($5), quesadillas ($3.75), enchiladas ($6.75) and if you're really strapped for cash, the taco ($2.50). But don't expect run-of-the-mill Mexican-American fare. Everything comes with a freshly handmade huarache, which makes all the difference.

Centerstage Reviewer: Marla Seidell