Come winter, the concrete slab this sushi and French-fusion cafe calls home is usually lower Wacker bum-grazing ground, with front seat, brown bag views of Marina City’s twin towers. But Diosa tidies up the area nice, blocking off the street with temp wall-dividers dressed in paintings from local artists, an ivy-entwined gazebo – home to a live jazz band on weekends – and patio sets for 50.

Again, it's a temp set-up. So don't be surprised by the port-o-potties bathrooms, or plastic silverware and cups (no dishwasher). Nor does Diosa offer boat owners a spot to dock, although kayakers have been known to slosh around like ducks and get served in baskets by the very compliant waitstaff.

In those baskets and on tables are non-standard sushi rolls like octopus, crab and shrimp diced amidst spicy mayo (dynamite roll; $10.95) and many filets of salmon and chicken aside fresh veggies. And on the weekend the aforementioned jazz band rolls up while the kitchen busts out its French cap, dishing out crepes and decadent pancake options (coconut, creme brulee).

Really the best showcase of Diosa would be a quick lunch run, for those looking for river views sans adjacent Flatwater and Smith & Wollenski price tags. But BYOB status and no corkage fees are enticing dinner features.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul