Part of Chicago's burgeoning crew of household name chefs, Shawn McClain of Asian-flavored Spring and veggie-laden Green Zebra recently opened his meatiest restaurant to date. Located in the boutique Hotel Blake, Custom House features a roster of Mediterranean-influenced American fare.

In an effort to support local farms and vendors, McClain peppers his seasonal menu with lamb from local flocks, organic chicken and grass-fed beef. (For those who speak gourmet, the above assortment underlines Custom House's focus on "artisanal meats.") The opening menu features appetizers like roasted quail and short rib ravioli with celery root sauce for the main course. A Benjamin tip: Most entrees cost between $15-$30, making this a special-evening destination.

The area now known as Printer's Row was once the gangster-populated, bordello-boasting Levee District. Drawing on the neighborhood's past as a gentlemen's lair, designer Francois Geneve filled Custom House with suave, masculine touches. Cushy suede banquettes, Macassar ebony wood and brown tiles imported from Italy create a boy's club atmosphere. However, these days, your tablemates are more likely to be business travelers discussing NASDAQ than Al Capone's minions.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg