A good Greek meal is hard to come by, but Cross-Rhodes delivers time and again. The traditional favorites like mousaka and souvlaki are as good here as they are anywhere in Greektown, and Cross-Rhodes probably stands up pretty well against Athens's finest as well. Of course, a Greek restaurant will only go as far as its gyros will take them, and in this regard, Cross-Rhodes soars. Whether of the normal size, king-size or topped with cheese, Cross-Rhodes delivers in this vital department. The meals also veer into unfamiliar territory for a Greek joint, with plates of fried shrimp, burgers and grilled chicken sandwiches joining the tsatziki and pita.

With its comical placemats (a silhouette of a table setting for a formal dinner) and comfortable atmosphere (white walls, pink and white linoleum tile floor) Cross-Rhodes has none of the pretensions of a fancier restaurant. The food is always good, always a little greasy and always cheap. Whether you're dining in the sea breeze of the Adriatic, or stomaching the painful winds of Lake Michigan, what more could you ask for in a restaurant?

Centerstage Reviewer: Patrick Corcoran