photo: courtesy of Couscous House

When Mediterranean meets American cuisine, you end up with a bottle of Heinz on every table. Perhaps it's for the less adventurous friends of falafel-loving fiends, or maybe pita and ketchup is catching on. Either way, it's the only thing American about this fusion restaurant, aside from the gas station-inspired coffee.

The menu, reminiscent of a first draft complete with scratch-outs and side notes, offers a small section of appetizers, salads, kabobs and (surprise) couscous. The food and service here more than make up for the stark atmosphere and scant selection. The owner excels in multitasking—hosting, cooking and serving the food. He'll even school you in proper couscous consumption.

Start with the hummus, made to order and paired with a basket of piping hot pita wedges, or try a bowl of Algerian soup. If you prefer your chickpeas fried, order the falafel; one serving comes with six pieces the size of plums plopped on a bed of mixed greens. Save room for one of the staple couscous dishes. These heaping entrees are made for sharing, but if you're dining alone they also go over well as a late-night snack. The piled-high grains, stacked with meat and veggies, are served with a slightly spicy broth intended to be poured over the couscous. It isn't likely that you'll be disappointed with the Mediterranean fare at Couscous House, but in any case you can always reach for the Heinz.

Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden