It seems like there's at least one bar representing every college, country, state or random affiliation in the city of Chicago. If there's not, all you have to do is wait around long enough or start your own. That's just what Tony Plum, a Queen City native and visual artist, did.

While working as a musician in California, Plum learned a thing or two about homesickness. So when he relocated to Chicago, he sunk some money into mod leather banquettes, Red's memorabilia and a whole lot of red paint to create a home away from home for the city's Cincinnati faithful.

Plum centered Cinner's culinary offerings around a premiere regional delicacy, chocolate-laden and allspice-perfumed Cincinnati chili. Eat a dollop of the brew over spaghetti topped with a nest of shredded cheese and you've got yourself a "three way" ($7.75); add beans and onion on top and you've worked your way up to a "five-way," making you a true culinary porn star.

If you aren't ready to go whole-hog, the coney dogs topped with a small slather of the chili, or the "Chili Muff" ($6.75), a muffin baked with chili, onion and cheese, make for good, smaller introductions to the chili. Drinks named after Cincy neighborhoods like "Over the Rhine" (rum, gin, watermelon vodka, Midori, sweet and sour, Sprite and grenadine), and cultural landmarks like "Mt. Adams," (Vanilla vodka, Frangelico and Amaretto) are excellent.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant