Buona Terra is a gem on many levels, serving exceptional Italian in Logan Square, a neighborhood that could use a few more restaurants, so long as any additions are as steeped in quality as this one. A homestyle feel creates an instant sense of welcome in this two-room establishment, whose closely positioned tables still provide an intimate setting. Service is understated but excellent: Small touches, like transferring both your drinks and your bill from the modest bar to your table upon being seated with nary a moment of questioning, make for a high level of care.

On Thursday nights, it's a level that seems won at a staggeringly low price. That evening's $21.95 prix-fixe menu is arguable the best tasting bargain in the city. You'll get your pick of sizeable appetizer, entree and dessert. But unlike many set menus, there are no set items to choose from. Any dish, from the tried-and-true caprese salad to that night's special, is for the picking. That whopping breadth of options, combined with the exceptional dishes that comprise the options, like butternut squash-stuffed ravioli and grilled homemade Italian sausage with escarole and beans, make Buona Terra a neighborhood spot worth making friends with.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz