To address the first inevitable question, Buca di Beppo means "Joe's basement." Yes, the Grand Street location is decidedly above ground, but in 1993, the restaurant's first location opened in a Minneapolis basement. Since its below-ground inception, the place has been more prone to exhibit red- and white-checkered tablecloths than starched linens, and raucous families are always welcome to pull up a chair.

The dining experience at Buca di Beppo is meant to evoke the immigrant culture of southern Italians who came to America shortly after World War II. Accordingly the folks in the Buca don't shy away from hefty portions; Neapolitan pizzas are "as big as bathmats" (or so say the owners) the chicken cacciatore is served whole, and the pastas and salads overflow from family-style platters. Only recently did the restaurant start offering scaled-down portions for smaller groups.

The menu escorts you from antipasti to dessert, allowing you to nibble your way through pizza, pasta and plenty o' side dishes along the way. Some popular dishes include the quattro al forno (a sampling of four baked pasta dishes) and the latini meat platter (chicken, pork chops, beef tenderloin and Italian sausage.) Entrees typically run from $15-$24, but you'll get a whole bunch of food for your buck.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg