Sir Mix-a-Lot had it almost right: It's big buns that rule, or, more specifically, Big Buns and Pita.

Unlike those derrieres, this Assyrian restaurant, located along a strip mall-heavy patch of Clark Street in Rogers Park, isn't much to look at. A bulb-encrusted sign makes the eatery easy to spot, and the interior looks like a very clean, very fresh take-out joint. So much so, in fact, that after deciding on what to order, we walked up to the counter, assuming that's the way the Big Buns world works. We were not only shooed back to our table and told we'd be waited on, but given complimentary hummus, baba ghanouj and very thin pita wedges to make up for the momentary confusion.

It's hard to top free food, but the second-best thing is delicious, inexpensive food served in hulking portions, and that's exactly what Big Buns dishes up. The menu includes hot dogs and Philly cheese steak sandwiches, though they should only be noted for their oddity and not as items to order here. That's because you'd be a fool not to order a dinner plate, each of which is served with lentil soup, salad and your choice of rice or couscous. Prices are shockingly low: The tashreb, a braised lamb shank served in a spicy tomato broth, costs $9.95; a giant platter of yellow couscous and 10 meaty grilled shrimp weighs in at $8.95; and the $6.99 dolmas include no less than 20 of the tightly wrapped grape leaves.

Prepare to leave full and with your stereotypes happily squashed. Big Buns may look like a place for pizza puffs (which it serves), but that's what makes the experience of lazily sipping wine (bring your own) while waiting for your made-to-order Cornish hen such an awesome surprise…as is the fact that you'll be a big tipper if you tell your server to keep the change from that 10-spot.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz