If you're looking for traditional Italian fare and upscale lodgings in the River North neighborhood, but don't mind tacking on inevitable valet costs or taking public transit, then Bice Bistro might be a good choice.

Located inside the ritzy Talbott Hotel, a stone's throw away from the Viagra Triangle, an upscale look is to be expected. Yet, Bice Bistro manages to keep prices reasonable, with entrees ranging $10.95-$21.95.

Smaller than its sister, Bice Ristorante, the bistro manages to shine on its own with some original menu items. The salmone alla sicliana in cartoccio is one of the more commonly ordered menu items, featuring baked salmon in parchment paper with black olives, capers and vegetables ($19.95). While the two restaurants do not have a Marsha-Jan relationship, Bice Bistro does take after its sister with a few family recipes such as the funghi risotto with wild mushrooms and saffron ($15.95). Why mess with a good thing?

If you have the appetite and dough for some dessert (pun entirely intended), you can't go wrong with tiramisu ($7.75) or the decadent cioccolatissimo chocolate souffle with vanilla gelato ($8.50).

Although the hotel lobby space is limited, Bice creates a spacious atmosphere with a wall-to-wall mirror. A handsome mahogany bar centers the intimately sized dining room, inspired with fine Italian accents to create a clubby ambiance. If you don't like inhaling exhaust, but would still like to spend your meal people watching, Bice opens its tavern to the less trafficked Delaware Place during the warmer months of the year.

And though Bice claims their dress is casual, just try to have a little class when you come in. This isn't the Olive Garden.

Centerstage Reviewer: Carly Fisher