This Italian restaurant dodges both cheesy pizzeria decor and upscale Italian pretensions, offering simple, hearty meals made from scratch. The spacious dining room is rarely crowded (the restaurant does a brisk business in delivery and carry-out), and you'll be rewarded for dining-in with a more extensive menu and frequent live music ranging from jazz to rock.

The Baked Tomato is best known for its thin and stuffed pizza, made with a homemade crust. Pizzas are mainly a choose-your-own affair, with an ingredient list so long you might as well order some pizza bread or bacon- and-gorgonzola stuffed mushroom caps to munch on while you make up your mind. Shrimp, roast beef, ham and salami are among the more unique ingredients, with a garden's worth of veggie options to balance them out. Nightly pizza specials, such as a scrumptious blackened chicken, may make your decision making easier.

For a simpler affair, turn to the sandwiches, with Italian beef and Italian sausage being menu's most popular. Or take a note from owner Steve Riordan, who says he secretly favors the pasta dishes; made with fresh noodles and homemade sauce, the spaghetti, cheesy baked mostaccioli and cheese or beef lasagna will set you back less than $8 each.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Rockwood