Backyard Grill owner Nick Drivas wants diners at his restaurant to feel like they're at a backyard barbecue. When it comes to decor, he's definitely succeeded. A shingled eave hangs over the charcoal grill; above it on the wall the extensive menu boards are shaped like windows on a house. The largest part of the dining area—the deck—is raised one step and fitted with plastic deck chairs. Overhead, beyond the ceiling fans, you'll find blue sky dappled with clouds.

When the grill first fired up, in 2004, its homemade gyros were the number-one seller (you can take that word "homemade" seriously, as the lamb is ground up and spiced on the premises). Now, though, Drivas says salads are the most popular item on the menu of "gourmet fast food," reflecting Chicagoans' greater focus on healthy eating. Still, it's not like this is rabbit food; most of the 20 salads are topped with meat, from a sirloin Caesar ($8) to a chop gyros salad. The truly health-conscious can pick and choose ingredients from the glass-shielded salad station, which sits next to the beverage bar (there's no booze at this barbecue).

All the meats here are charbroiled, from the Grecian chicken to the surf-and-turf (filet and shrimp) kebob. The BBQ beef basket, with coleslaw, fries and drink, is under $8, as is the half-pound cheddar bacon Angus burger.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robert Duffer