North Lincoln Square may be considered largely undiscovered to the average Lakeview- and Lincoln Park-dwelling Chicagoan. That's the kind of thing that can tend to work in one's favor, however: Sparse crowds can mean a lack of lines for good eats, and explorations of the northern frontier can reveal hidden gems one can use to impress those who rarely venture north of Montrose. One such impressive, hidden gem is the Aztecas Mex Taqueria.

This taqueria is old-school Chicago. The focus here isn't on the decor: Linoleum floors and wedding hall-style chairs and tables dot the dining area, with heaps of upbeat, brightly colored cheer in the form of Aztec and Mexican colors and tapestries. A wall-mounted television is tuned to Univision, and your fellows diners are likely to be a card-playing group of family or friends. That family feeling extends to the owners, who are personable and quick with a suggestion if you need a hand finding something special on the large menu.

The dinners are great, and a platillo with salad, rice and beans can run from $7-$12, but the way to go here is a la carte. Tortas are big and cheap, most coming in at $4, with the Hawaiana, a sizable sandwich of ham and pineapple, being a unique treat. Every taco is less than $2, even the amazing steak version. For a truly special snack, help yourself to a few flautas, also less than $2, and quite possibly some of the best you'll ever have.

Aztecas has a small bar, and the sangria and margaritas flow forth along with a selection of six different Mexican imported beers, and a few American domestics, all to be had for less than $4 apiece.

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman