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Holy Smoked

We round up the finest barbecue spots this side of the Mason-Dixon.
Monday Jul 02, 2007.     By Karl Klockars
Centerstage Chicago Nightlife City Guide Arts

photo: courtesy of Clifton Henri, pictured: Lem's BBQ
The oncoming 4th of July often means the sacrifice of millions of barbecue briquettes, losing their lives for the greater good of grilling. But perhaps you don't have a grill? Hell, some of us don't even have backyards. Prepared to compensate for your shortcomings, we've rounded up the finest barbecue spots this side of the Mason-Dixon, leaving those carbon-charred hockey pucks you once called grilled meat a distant memory in your dining past. So, tuck your shirt in and grab the bib and wet naps 'cause it's about to get messy.

Smoque BBQ
Even Gourmet has noted this restaurant's ability to power out reliable and tasty brisket, pulled pork, ribs and chicken. A kind of new-millennium brand of barbecue, Smoque's cavernous interior verges on sterile in its lack of smoke-scent, and orders arrive on stainless steel, Jetson-esque trays. The 'cue, however, is all down-home authenticity. Not convinced? Check out the manifesto on Smoque's website, which reads like an NPR "This I Believe" piece all about smoked meat. It's beautiful. Prices run from about $20 for a full slab, two sides and slaw to just under $8 for a pulled pork sandwich with one side. Make sure to slap some rich mac 'n' cheese, smoky baked beans and the mind-blowing slaw onto your plate to complete the experience.

Honey 1 BBQ
The motto here is: "The smoke is no joke," and they ain't kidding. Walk through the doors and find yourself enveloped by the smell of heavily woodsy, sweet smoke. That smell lets you know you're in the vicinity of one of the city's finest pit-masters, Robert Adams, whose aquarium-style smoker keeps the meats slowly cooking until they're ready for distribution. Chicken wings, smoked chickens and seafood selections like catfish and perch appear on menu, but it's really all about the pig; ribs, hotlinks, tips and pulled pork steal the spotlight, much to the relief of many cattle. We recommend the tips and links combo, a generous serving (even the small, for $8.25) of rib tips and spicy pork sausages served over fries, with a slice of white bread for good measure. Bring your own Old Style (it's BYOB), order up a side of fried okra and gizzards and hunker down for a hearty meal.

Lem's BBQ
Many local 'cue hounds consider this South Side staple the promised land, swearing to never go elsewhere for their carnivorous fix. Lem's powerhouse smoker permeates the air of 75th for blocks. The menu doesn't stray from the standards—ribs, tips, chicken and hot links—but like anything else, it's not what you've got but what you do with it. The smoking process here imparts a rich flavor to the meat in addition to keeping it juicy (and messy), and the spice rub adds a nice kick. Don't expect the fall-off-the-bone, jello-style ribs you'll find at so many other lesser places. That ain't 'cue. That ain't Lem's.

Barbara Ann's Barbecue
While plenty of folks overlook sausage when considering barbecue, Barbara Ann's version keeps the crowds coming south. The coarse-ground, medium-heat link carries all the smoke flavor of the hickory, oak and charcoal you come to expect, accompanied by a smooth kick of heat and a few extra helpings of pork fat. The takeout-only joint also features a relative rarity: beef, not pork, rib tips. Another tip (advice, not rib): Always order sauce on the side, otherwise your 'cue will likely drown in the ketchupy/vinegary mixture. The place is attached to a charmless, hourly-rates motel, so you should you need a nap after a serious nosh, you don't have far to go.

Carson's
Once a citywide staple for its famed ribs, Carson's sort of fell off the map in the past few years, but we still have a soft spot for the joint. For now you'll only find this slab-purveyor in River North and Deerfield, but a few more locations are said to be in the works. Still Carson's separates itself from rest by offering a full-service restaurant; no counter service and cafeteria-style seating here. It's baked potato sides and shrimp cocktail appetizers, steak entrees with a half-slab on the side, pork chops, chicken and even (gasp) salad. Beyond that, the establishment generously shares tricks of the trade on its website with a how-to guide on smoking ribs on a simple Weber grill.

The best part: Most of the aforementioned places offer catering packages. Show up to your friends' cookouts with a dozen slabs, multiple orders of wings, links, tips and chickens and reign supreme.

 

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