Located across the street from the classy and costly Mirai, Aki Sushi greets the Division Street strip with a casual vibe and a hearty selection of specialty maki rolls priced around $10-$15. The categorized to-go menu, which you may grab at the front desk, is perhaps the best aspect of the Aki experience. Rather than having to sift your way through the extensive list of rolls to find your favorite flavors, the menu is divided into sections catering to breed of sushi-eater and featured fish: beginner, adventurer, tuna lover, salmon lover, dragon family and Aki specialty.

Tempura-lovers will delight in the bevy of "crunch"-inclusive options, including a deep-fried Hawaiian maki with shrimp, crabmeat, smoked salmon, avocado and cream cheese; the Snow Dragon with super white tuna, shrimp tempura, cucumber, avocado, mayo, plum paste and yellow tobiko; and Green Dragon with avocado, shrimp tempura, wasabiko, cucumber, avocado and wasabi mayo. Appetizers like ceviche and grilled scallops in creamy mango sauce, sashimi and nigiri ($1.50-$3.50 each) and sushi combo platters round out the menu.

Unlike its efficient, easy-to-navigate menu, Aki's service leaves much to be desired. While you'll easily snag a table without a wait on a Saturday night, you're just as likely to find yourself waiting a while for your food. If the weather's nice, you're best off enjoying the sidewalk seating with a glass or two of wine. The interior decor is minimal, with simple tables flanked by exposed brick walls, a sushi bar in back and a dribbling fountain in front beside low bamboo and rice paper partitions and hanging lanterns. Dim lighting and pop music a la easy listening hip-hop set the ambiance.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jessica Herman