It's probably a good thing that Ai Sushi Lounge isn't trying to match the audacity of the former inhabitant of this River North space. While Kizoku's naked sushi concept was a fun idea, Ai's more wholesome theme (the name means "love" in Japanese) would seem to have more staying power.

Executive chef Toyoji Hemmi creates the menu at this lounge from the restauranteurs behind Ringo and Tsuki, and he's not shy about taking credit. Try the Chef Hemmi Spicy Tuna roll, covered with spicy tako, ikura, avocado and drizzled with spicy mayo and sprinkled with pinenuts and wrapped cucumber tempura flakes and wasabi mayo. The crunchy salmon maki is Ai's version of the California maki, blanketed with salmon, wasabi tobiko and wasabi mayo, and resting on a bed of tempura flakes. Rolls run $6-$16. Other tasty dishes include the rubbed wasabi filet mignon served on top of a Japanese sweet potato and the parmesan chicken breast grilled and served with sauteed broccoli in teriyaki.

The spot resembles a loft-like Japanese garden with wooden walls, mod lighting and a clear view from the large windows overlooking Ontario Street. Red and black seating and cubed tables are scattered throughout. If you prefer to just lie around in the comfort of your own home, delivery is available as well.

Centerstage Reviewer: Janis Mabalay