For a city with 110 synagogues, it's practically criminal that it took so long for a full-service kosher restaurant to open up in the Loop. Metroklub is having no difficulty proving that it was worth the wait. Located in the Crown Plaza Hotel, this new spot is quickly becoming the "it" haunt for power lunches. No wonder; although the tiny dining room serves only 33 at a time, the restaurant's policy is to turn around parties in under 45 minutes. Then there's the decor: By mixing the clean lines of contemporary design with classy touches like green mohair chairs, the lounge-y vibe at MetroKlub shows a whole lotta chutzpah.

Chef Chris Turano trumpets himself as the "kosher Iron Chef", and he isn't far off. The beauty of Turano's menu is in its universal appeal. You don't have to be orthodox to appreciate the tomato-basil bruschetta with fresh garlic ($6) or grilled skirt-steak with herb-tossed fries ($18). The kitchen— painstakingly supervised by Midwest Kosher's Rabbi Mordechai Tarkieltaub—also has some interesting takes on standard sandwich options. The grilled chicken with caramelized onions and baby arugala is served on a baguette, but the marinated portabella and grilled veggie wrap is proving to be a fan favorite. Everything available is glatt-kosher—which is pretty hardcore, considering that every ingredient must be scrutinized closely, right down to the smoothness of the cow's lungs. MetroKlub has positioned itself as Chicago's lunchtime salvation for diners on a kosher diet, and those that have to eat with them.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe