Plush brings the opulence of the glitzy downtown nightlife experience to the mortgage-strapped masses. With sofas and chairs adorned in crushed red velvet, stainless steel high-backed bar stools, a flat-screen TV displaying alternating images of famous works of Renaissance art, Plush is, by all appearances, a Carrie Bradshaw haven. One exclusive-looking table is slightly elevated, and those who arrive early enough can snag this premier locale without committing to bottle service.

Owner Billy Kleronomos commissioned a local artist to create tabletops with a sparkling finish, as well as two freestanding papier-mache-type sculptures that lurk in the corners. (Hint: One holds a basket of eggs inside its head.) The interior design team also created the famously eclectic Marche, and Plush boasts similarly clever touches like a single rose in a vase on the walls.

Given this ornate accessorizing, it's a pleasant surprise to discover the reasonably priced dishes. Though it's decked out in its nightclub finest, Plush doubles as a casual neighborhood eatery. Filet mignon tops off the menu at $24, but most of the pizzas and sandwiches fall in the $10 range. Don't miss the signature apple ravioli, semolina pasta stuffed with fresh Granny Smith apples topped with sun-dried tomatoes and grilled chicken in a creamy sauce.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robin Wright