If you walk down south Western Avenue in Beverly and fail to fall into an Irish bar, you either aren't trying hard enough or you're on the dry side of the street. Some of these bars are respected establishments that draw customers from throughout the city. Some you just know you need to avoid. And then there are some that make you feel right at home with a refreshing lack of pretension.

Such is the case with O'Brians (formerly known as Shamrock Express), located at the tail-end of Beverly's "Irish Row." There's nothing classy about this joint; it's simply functional. Drinks are affordable ($4-$6, depending on the poison), served fast and often in pairs. Beers are simple, poured into mugs or drained straight from the bottle. There's darts and a multiplayer arcade for folks who want to keep to themselves or work on their reflexes. But the main reason to come to O'Brians is the people-watching. In a city with fewer and fewer neighborhood bars the way Dad remembered, it's a throwback. Locals flock here to chew the fat, while rising and falling with every called strike and home run hit by the White Sox.

Centerstage Reviewer: Chuck Sudo