The latest in the Chicago Avenue - a.k.a "we're-almost-as-cool- as-Division-Avenue" - set may be crafted from the same hipster minds behind Darkroom and the Continental. But with micro-brew suds on tap, a gastropub kitchen and bi-level, ski-lodge-meets-castle decor, you would not guess at the connection.

There is a little quip in the beer menu, listing drafts of hipster holy water – PBR – with the question, "Does this really need a description?" Find it among Delware IPAs, Canada red ales and the proverbial best beer in the world ('98 World Beer champion), Belgium's Delirium Tremens pale ale. Though the prices are so low, at $5-$8 for pints ($3 for PBR), that a rainbow-diverse set of patrons really don't care who's behind Old Oak, but rather happy to revel in the too-good-to-be-true deals.

Likewise with food, fusing mashed potato and fried chicken comfort sides ($3) with share-ables like baked goat cheese and crostinis ($9) and high-brow sandwiches like sautéed tilapia dressed in Cajun remoulade and arugula on a baguette ($9). Some worldly wine options follow suit, at no more than $8 a glass and $38 per bottle. But Old Oak is really a place for beer aficionados, going back to those all-stars on tap and another 20-plus of bottle options touting German pilsners and Netherlands ales you won't find at other pubs in the 'hood.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul