Any lofty restaurant concept is difficult to pull off without the proper environs. A quick glance around the sleek lines of Niu Japanese Fusion Lounge reveals chocolate leather, a half-moon sushi bar, a massive birch-tree mural and a ceiling that looks like the product of M.C. Escher and Frank Gehry taking a roll in the Feng Shui hay. The warm color palette is offset by the seemingly sub-zero ambient temperature maintained to keep fish fresh on the tables. The minimalist vibe bleeds into the menu, which is pretentiously sub-categorized into sections like "liquid", "green", "wok" and "slice".

Docile diners will swoon for the inventive stir-fry menu at Niu, and those looking for standard Japanese fare will want to stick with the standard maki selection; the Zen roll includes cucumber, avocado, gobo and asparagus, the Bagel wraps around salmon, cream cheese and avocado, and the Spicy can be made with tuna, yellowtail, salmon, scallop or octopus. These gentle options satisfy, but culinary adventurers who prefer to apply the "buy the ticket, take the ride" sentiment to fusion dining won't be disappointed by the Honeymoon shooter ($11), an ovum v. aphrodisiac concoction fashioned from oyster, uni, ikura, caviar and quail egg and sprinkled with gold flakes. The other must-try on the fusion side is the Shishito Pepper—a deep-fried jalapeno pepper stuffed with scallops, crabmeat and cream cheese. Fresh fish, slick decor and inventive fare prove that Niu shakes it up a bit—just not quite enough to justify its overtly uppity airs.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe