D'Vine has undergone several transformations. Following its 2000 opening, the Wicker Park hang was known for metal-accented decor, chef-selected wine flights and highfalutin savories like braised osso bucco. Today, the joint has toned down some of that metallic brass and replaced it with sexy, club-like decor and a less show-stopping (but just as delicious) selection of eats.

The intimate bar boasts a raised VIP-section in front where floor-to-ceiling windows proffer colorful views of Wicker Park and champagne buckets cozy up to leather couches. A bit beyond the bubbly haven, D'Vine's bottles stand against a nail-polish red wall. Cozy booths, hanging lanterns and candlelit tables line the way toward the rear, where a live DJ spins ear-blasting tunes, so bring a date who really likes to dance or is just so much prettier when silent.

Expect always-glad-to-see-'em bar appetizers like quesadillas, calamari and chicken wings served hot, crispy or barbeque. Teriyaki chicken salads, chipotle shrimp wraps and entrees like butterflied fantail shrimp and chicken parmesan round out the menu. For dessert order the sweetest thing on the whole darn menu: the old-fashioned banana foster, served with Grand Marnier and French vanilla ice cream.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg