From its soft-lighting to the friendly and timely service, Chelsea Grill is all about comfort. It even says "comfortable food" under its restaurant name outside.

But don't think that means a menu full of mashed potatoes and tomato soup. Chef Robert Butterfield has given comfort foods a bit of his own spin, showing that fine dining and dishes like mac 'n' cheese don't have to be mutually exclusive.

Once seated on one of the glossy cherry seats and matching wooden tables, take a look at the short menu of drinks. Ordering a glass of wine ($6.50-$10) or one of the reasonably priced domestic and imported beers is a good first step.

Appetizers ($1.95-$9.95) include classics such as crispy calamari and pizzas. But the Grill also offers more sophisticated choices — for instance the fried goat cheese served on grilled toast with red pasta sauce and herbs is a far cry from your typical deep-fried breaded mozzarella sticks.

Entrees ($7.95-$18.95) offer the same type of diversity. Order the mac 'n' cheese, or choose the house specialty Chelsea burger with applewood bacon. If you're looking for something a little fancier, try the perfectly cooked seared Atlantic salmon with potato puree and ginger-citrus butter or the pan-roasted chicken breast with roasted rosemary potatoes and carrots. The friendly staff will gladly exchange one of your sides for another, if you choose to do so. After the main course, satisfy your sweet tooth with a slice of apple pie with homemade cinnamon ice cream ($4.95).

Centerstage Reviewer: Kimber Solana